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BEVERAGES : BEYOND TURKISH COFFEE AND “AYRAN”
Volumes have been written about Turkish coffee; its history, its
significance in social life, and the ambiance of the ubiquitous
coffee houses.
Without some understanding of this background, it is easy to be
disappointed by the tiny brew with the annoying grounds, which an
uninitiated traveler (like Mark Twain) may accidentally end up
chewing. A few words of caution will have to suffice for the
purposes of this brief primer. First, the grounds are not to be
swallowed, so sip the caffee gingerly. Secondly, don’t expect a
caffeine surge with one shot of Turkish coffee; it is not strong,
just thick. Third, remember that it is the setting and the company
that matter; the coffee is just an excuse for the occasion.
Tea, on the other hand, is the main source of caffeine for the turks.
It is prepared in a special way, by brewing it over boiling water
and served in delicate, small, clear glasses to show the deep red
color and to transmit the heat to the hand. Drinking tea is such an
essential part of a working day,that any disruption of the constant
supply of fresh tea is a sure way to sacrifice productivity. Once
upon a time, so the story goes, a lion escaped from Ankara Zoo and
took up residence in the basement of an office building. It began
devouring public servants and executives. It even ate up a few
ministers of stade and nobody took notice. It is said, however, that
a posse was immediately formed when the lion caught and ate the
“tea-man”, the person responsible for the supply of fresh tea!
A park without tea and coffee is inconceivable in Turkey. Thus,
every spot with a view has a tea-house or a tea-garden. These places
may be under a plain tree overlooking the village or town square, on
top of a hill with majestic view of a valley or the sea, by a
harbor, in a market, on a roadside with a scenic view, by a
waterfall, or in the woods. Among the typical tea-gardens in
Istanbul are the Emirgan on the European side, Çamlýca on the
Anatolian side of the Bosphorus, the famous Pierre Loti cafe, and
the tea-garden in Üsküdar. But the traditional tea-houses are
beginning to disappear from the more tourist-oriented seaside
locations, in favour of pubs and “Biergartens”.
Among the beverages worth mentioning are excellent fruit juices.
But, perhaps the most interesting drink is “boza”, traditionally
sold in neighborhood streets by wandering vendors on a winter’s
night. This is a thick, fermentated drink made of wheat berries, to
be enjoyed with a dash of cinnamon and a handful of roasted chick
peas. Boza can also be found year-round at certain cafes or dessert
shops. Finally, “sahlep” is a hot drink made with milk and sahlep
powder sprinkled with cinnamon. It is a good remendy for sore
throats and colds, in addition to being delicious. |
